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Australian Recipe

Appetizer

Serves 1
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Short Description

Blackberrying, picking fruit for a pie, comes laden with nostalgia, guilt (we are stealing; hedges inevitably belong to 'someone') and the heart-racing delight of finding food for free. I have always been a 'blackberrier'. I collected them on my way home from school, from a vast, cloud-like thicket in a field complete with the menace of a ring-nosed Hereford bull. Almost at the top of Ankerdine Hill, just off a road leading from Martley to Knightwick in rural Worcestershire, it was the largest blackberry bush I have ever seen. It is gone now, but there are bramble hedges further up the lane. Later, there were trips through the Lake District, the lanes around Thornbury, and the occasional chance sighting you get when you have no bag in which to put your shiny black booty. Today, berries hang over my garden wall from next door, vast, glistening skeins of them with artery threatening thorns. It is not often I reach this point in their year without a dot-dash-dot of dried scabs on the inside of my arm. Blackberries freeze exceptionally well. Unlike a strawberry, they are made up of lots of tiny berries, druplets, held together to form one larger berry, so they don't collapse when defrosted. I keep some in the freezer for a winter blackberry and apple crumble. The cultivated varieties aren't bad, but are often too large and sweet to remind us of childhood hedgerow feasts. They come far behind the wild berry in terms of flavour, and somehow feel wrong - too plump, too flabby - in an apple pie. Where they are good is in an ice-cream cake, such as the one here, which comes in the form of a loaf, the store-bought vanilla ice studded with biscuit crumbs and fat fruits.


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