According to Chinese lore, this
dish was invented by a pockmarked
widow from Chengdu, the capital of
Szechuan province, whose spicy,
numbingly hot tofu dish became
famous throughout the land. The
heat from this dish typically comes
from several sources-fiery heat
from chilies and chili oil, numbing
heat (ma la) from Szechuan
peppercorns, and a savory spice
from hot broad bean paste. Like
many Chinese dishes, the small
amount of meat relative to the
amount of tofu used is
deliberate-the pork serves more as
a flavoring, and the tofu really
has a chance to shine. Adjust the
amount of chilies, chili oil, and
peppercorns according to your
taste.