My introduction to this dish,
which has its roots in Portugal,
was at a big food event in New York
City, where chef Jasper White used
pork as the centerpiece. When I
became the chef at Postrio, we were
getting quail from Brent Wolfe, who
raises quail on his ranch near
Dixon, California. And because I
love pairing game with seafood, I
thought of those Wolfe Ranch quail
(which are larger than the typical
farmed quail and have an incredibly
clean flavor). The instinct was
right. Because of its size, quail
is more apt to dry out than, say,
chicken. Wrapping the bird in bacon
keeps the meat nice and moist. Keep
in mind, too, that quail, unlike
chicken, can be served a little on
the pink side.
